Our Achy Breaky Macarena Day Trip Montenegro

As part of our week long stay in Dubrovnik, we thought it'd be fun to rent a car and visit Montenegro since the border was only an hour away.  We had heard a little bit about Montenegro and that it could be an up and coming tourist destination, so why not check it out?  

The whole day turned out to be quite an adventure- we hiked up a mountain, got a little lost and ended up in a place that looked like Baz Lurhmann's version of Romeo & Juliet (dirty beach carnival looking place we dubbed 'Fair Verona'), we shopped, we ate, and mostly explored the city of Kotor.  The whole day including the drive (there and back) was a day to remember... Thankfully, Montenegro's radio stations had lots of bad US hits from the early 90's as our soundtrack along the way!  Almost like we stepped back in time, LOL! 

Here's a look at our day trip and we included a couple videos of the most surprising musical moments on the drive...

Photos from the car ride after crossing the Croatian border into Montenegro

Our first strange radio music encounter was the moment we went through customs into Montenegro.  I think anyone would think WTF if the Macarena randomly came on the radio, right?  I couldn't help but think it was funny! 

Views of Herceg Novi from the car

After passing through Herceg Novi, good ol' Billy Ray Cyrus paid us a visit on the radio- oh yes, his Achy Breaky goodness... How could we not sing along?! 

Beautiful scenery all around as we approached the city of Kotor

City and fortress walls of Kotor

Street scenery inside Kotor's Old City Walls

Despite all of the strange/bad music we heard on our drive, we had a nice surprise when we saw/ heard these musicians on a street in the Old City.  The music was beautiful and the sound captured the look and feel of Kotor. 

Churches in the old city, most dating back to the 1300's

More views of the Old City streets and the entrance to Kotor's fortress

A must-do if visitng Kotor- ascend approximately 1,350 stairs to a height of 1,200 meters to see the views from atop PTvrđave Kotora or the Castle of San Giovanni

The PTvrđave Kotora fortress walls date back to medieval times, built on and off between the 9th and 19th centuries, and built by everyone from the Byzantines to the Venetians

Photos of the PTvrđave Kotora fortress once we got to the top of those 1,350 stairs!

The long, LONG, drive home and 2.5 hour wait in line to get through customs and back into Hrvatska! 

Favorite moment in Montenegro...

Alex: While walking through the old town, there was a small group of street performers playing classical music near a small town square in Kotor. The group was nothing more than a violinist and two gentleman playing accordions but, the classical sound that they created gracefully weaved its way through the ancient city, calling everyone within earshot to seek it out. It was beautiful, peaceful, and a moment I will never forget.

Carla: I can't say it was an exact moment, but my favorite memory when thinking of Montenegro was just wandering the streets of Kotor.  I think it was the first time during our whole Europe trip were I really zoned out and could just wander aimlessly.  It is less crowded and smaller than all the other cities, so I really took it in.  I didn't worry about being lost, I didn't feel like I had to swat people out of my way- I got to just stay in the moment I guess, so maybe that is why all the exploring is my favorite "moment".

What surprised us about Montenegro...

Alex: Honestly, the music selection on the local radio. Seriously. We heard the Macarena and Billy Ray Cyrus playing on the radio within 5 minutes of each other. It almost seemed as though the entertainment was being piped in from the late 80’s/early 90’s. At any rate, it gives the locals a good idea of what most of America is all about!

Carla: I thought it'd be a lot like Croatia since it basically shares the same Adriatic Coast, it's hot/sunny, has old Stari Most towns every few miles, and has mountains.  Sounds a lot like Croatia, but I was surprised at how different the whole look and feel was.  A lot of people describe Montenegro as "the most beautiful meeting of the land and sea" or "where the mountains fell into the sea" and it is truly the most defining characteristic of Montenegro.  The natural beauty of the inland fjords meeting against the mega mountains is unlike anything I have ever seen, and it was all around, everywhere you looked! 

What tip(s) would we share for someone going there...

Alex: It’s beautiful. The natural splendors are aplenty and that alone is worth the trip. However, Montenegro is just beginning to embrace the fact that they’re one of the next tourist hot spots. That said, it’s not as glamorous as some other places along the Adriatic. Give them 5-10 years though and you’ll be looking at some great accommodations right next to ancient cities that dot the coast all the way to the land where the mountains fell into the sea.

Carla: If you are driving into Montenegro from Croatia and plan to drive back into Croatia, know that it could take anywhere from one to three or even four hours to get through customs and back into Croatia.  I have never had to wait in a line that long to get through customs into another country, and that includes going from Ciudad Juarez back into the US (work trip a few years ago, needless to say our company doesn't permit travel there anymore).  Alex and I had no idea it would take that long and almost got charged another full day for our car rental since we didn't make it back by the 8pm deadline.  We waited about two and a half hours, it was so annoying and stressful!  So if anyone out there does the same at least you've been warned, build in that extra time to your schedule! 

Why would we go back to Montenegro?

Alex: This is one place that I really want to go back to, just to see how it grows and develops.

Carla: I'd love to go back and explore some of the smaller towns that we saw along the drive and I'd also like to see if their tourism grows since it's possibly up and coming- I wonder if that will be true? It has many beautiful characteristics that Croatia has and we also heard that Montenegro is envious of Croatia's tourism boom, however Montenegro might have a ways to go before catching up to Croatia.  It certainly is charming, but seemed like it needed some more structure or something? With that said though, it is a nice smaller town escape from Dubrovnik for a day and not far away at all! 

The Pearl of the Adriatic, Dubrovnik

"Those who seek paradise on Earth should come to Dubrovnik and see Dubrovnik." 

– George Bernard Shaw, Nobel Prize winning writer and playwright

I'm very happy that I get to share our favorite city from vacation today! Croatia is always a special place for us to visit because Alex's family came from Croatia.  When we got married and I became a Zidarevich, I didn't know a lot about this small country on the Adriatic until we went to Split in 2009.  I quickly understood why his family took so much pride in being Croatian.  Yes, there's the beauty, islands, the Adriatic, fresh food, the old world feel, beaches, 275 days of sunshine a year, and just about any wonderful thing you can think of- But more than any of that, I love the people, the lifestyle, and the general feel you have when you are there.  It's truly incredible! 

So, I know I aleady said it, but I really am excited that I get to share a glimpse of Dubrovnik with you!  Let's go! 

Views of Dubrovnik, the Adriatic Sea, and Banje Beach

Alex taking in his first moments in Dubrovnik, his highlights included breakfast at Lady PiPi inside the Old City and eating Croatian Cheescake! His grandma makes it for every holiday and it was the first time he had the real deal in Croatia!

Here's a video glimpse while walking on the walls

Beautiful views of Dubrovnik along the 1.5 mile walk atop the Old City Walls, go at sunset and avoid large cruise ship crowds! 

Best dinner of the whole vacation at Rozario, loved the seafood stew and found Posip, our favorite Croatian wine! 

Nighttime fun on the pier outside the city walls, at the Casablanca bar, and our favorite late night treat- fries from Surf'n'Fries

Buza Bar, the best spot in town day or night! Where else can can you soak up the sun, sip fruity drinks or a Karlovacko, and go cliff driving?! Croatians have the life!

With so many small island and caves just off the coast, it was a blast exploring for the day on a jet ski (Gari Transfer Rentals)

Always a must in Croatia, fresh seafood! Great mussels and black ink squid risotto at Moby Dick

Known by locals to be cursed, Lokrum Island remains uninhabited. Only accessible by boat, the island was a peaceful escape from the city and an unforgettable experience

Croatian tapas at Lucin Kantun, a perfect way to try and share traditional dishes!

Placa-Stradun after sunset

Sights and sunset along Placa-Stradun

Excellent traditional Bosnian cusine at the Taj Mahal, lived up to the hype and worth the long wait!

The view from our wonderful room at the Peline 21 Apartments (highly recommend, the owner gave us great tips & made us feel at home!)

Our last beautiful sunset in Dubrovnik, the Pearl of the Adriatic and certainly paradise on Earth! 

What was your favorite moment in Dubrovnik?

 Alex:  It didn't take Carla and I very long to fall in love with a certain location in Dubrovnik. When we first found "it" we both had this overwhelming feeling of calm and happiness. We went back there every night and it never felt forced, faked, or routine. Whether we were unintentionally sharing gelato with oneanother or sipping a local wine and and snacking on cheese, this little spot felt like our very own little sliver of Dubrovnik. I'm not going to disclose the location because I hope that you too will travel to Hrvatska someday and find your own special spot.  The visits to this little spot were my favorite moments in Dubrovnik, and lucky for me, they happened each night during our visit!

Carla: There were too many so it's hard to pick just one!  But if  I have to pick, I guess one moment that really stuck out was when we were out island hopping on our jet ski.  Alex let me take the wheel after we left Lokrum Island and I decided to head toward the Old Town to get a closer glimpse of the Dubrovnik's city walls.  There we were, whizzing by those tall limestone walls on the sparkling Adriatic Sea.  I had seen many photos of Dubrovnik before planning our trip, hoping I'd see it with my own eyes someday and in that moment I had my own look at Dubrovnik, a picture no one else would see and an experience I'd never forget.  Those moments passing by on the sea are what I picture when I think of Dubrovnik now, more beautiful than any photo could capture.  

What surprised you about Dubrovnik?

Alex: Dubrovnik. The pearl of the adriatic. What surprised me? I'm not 100% sure how to answer this one. You see, I knew it was going to be beautiful. I knew it was going to be relaxing and exciting at the same time. I knew it would feel like home. I knew I wouldn't want to leave. I thought I knew so much about Dubrovnik and still, I was surprised that not a single one of my expectations fell short.

Carla:  That visiting War Photo Limited  gallery and seeing remnants of the war at the old Dubrovnik Riveria would end up being some of the most meaningful parts of our visit (see more information and photos below related to this topic).  Everything in the gallery is sad and seeing parts of Dubrovnik still destroyed is shocking.  You'd think we would avoid sad things on our trip right?  It's hard to explain, but things like that hit you deeply and you learn so much in those moments. Makes you all the more thankful for peace- such a simple word to describe an outcome of so many struggles.

What was your must-try menu item while in Dubrovnik? 

Alex: Honestly, you have to try the fresh seafood. We live in the midwest so FRESH seafood is basically limited to Walleye. In Croatia, you are getting the catch of the day every time you sit down and order black seafood risotto, or seafood stew, or grilled octopus, or stuffed squid, or mussels, or escargot, or....well, you get the idea. Oh, I almost forgot, fresh figs from the daily farmers market. Same as the seafood really. These are fresh - as in meet the farmer that picked it an hour ago, fresh...so good! 

Carla: It was my favorite dish during our whole multi-city trip- the Seafood Stew from Rozario, a charming restaurant within the Old City walls.  I had never had something like it, the flavor was incredible and the fresh fish used in the stew was the most delicious fish I've ever tasted! To top it off, instead of bread, they served perfectly cooked & crisp polenta.  We also discovered our favorite bottle of local wine, Posip from Korcula Island, which paired perfectly with the meal! That dinner experience was the best of the whole trip, the waiter even stayed to chat with us for a while after reading our last name asking if we had family from Croatia.  When we go back to Dubrovnik (because we will!) I'm heading to Rozario for that stew! 

What tip would we share for someone going to Dubrovnik?

Alex: Lokrum island is approximately 700 meters off shore and it deserves a visit. You can catch a short ride over there from one of the several charters in town or you can rent a jet ski or boat and head out there on your own. However you get there, just be sure to get there. It's beautiful, has great swimming spots, is filled with beautiful wild peacocks, and even has a couple small cafes that make it easy for you to spend a whole day there. 

Carla: Be ready for some serious stairs if you are exploring the Old Town.  We had heard about the stairs when reading through travel guides and thought nothing of it because there's always a lot of walking and stairs in older European cities.  But yea, Dubrovnik tops them all when it comes to stairclimbing.  From the main drag Placa-Stradun, you can only go up to get anywhere in either direction and the stairs are more like blocks.  It doesn't ruin the experience or anything, just be ready to feel the burn in your thighs and calves :) I guess it makes it easy for locals to look great on the beach though! 

Why would you go back to Dubrovnik?

Alex: I would go back to Dubrovnik because this feels like home to me. I know it'd be great to say that I would go back for the cliff diving at Buza Bar, or the crystal clear Adriatic, and the Karlovacko at Banje beach but, the truth is, I will go back just to feel at home. In my heart, this is home. I challenge you to discover your own reason to visit Croatia (or go back). You'll be glad that you did.

Carla: Why wouldn't we?!? Croatia is the most beautiful, peaceful, happy, and perfect place I've ever been to in my life.  We've been to Split and Dubrovnik now, and the same feeling overcame me during both visits.  There's something about Croatia that you just feel.  You could be just sitting on the beach or diving off cliffs into the Adriatic, no matter if you are relaxing or taking in an adventure, each moment feels exciting and perfect. You betch-yer ass we're going back! 

Alight, there's a bit more below regarding my "what surprised you" response, but that's it for Dubrovnik!  Get ready for Montenegro next followed by our last city, Rome.  Vacation posts coming to an end shorty then we're really back to reality :)

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War Photo Limited Gallery and the old Dubrovnik Rivera

You won't see many remnants from the war in the old city, but if you want to get a glimpse there's a place midway between Dubrovnik and the airport known as the old Dubrovnik Rivera.  We only found out about it thanks to our driver Robbie after chatting about Alex's Croatian roots and mentioning the wartime gallery.  I know it is strange but as I said above, these experiences were deeply moving and didn't want to leave it out of Dubrovnik post.  Take what you will from it, I'm just thankful for the peace there is today, otherwise Alex and I wouldn't have found our favorite place in the world.

Once known as Dubrovnik's Rivera, these four large resorts named Pelegein, Kupari, Grand, & Goricina remain as is since the war

The Grand Hotel, built in the 1920's and once the biggest tourist draw in Dubrovnik.  I can only imagine how beautiful this old hotel was, and maybe it will be again someday.

A look at a few gallery images and a short description of the war- I know not many US folks understand or know about it so I wanted to include

If you visit Dubrovnik, we highly recommend visiting the gallery.  It is a moving experience! 

Buongiorno Italia Milano!

I can't lie, it's hard to get back into the groove at home since our holiday. We're working on it, heck Alex even wrote up a project list already!  But for now, I hope you'll be patient with us on house stuff and I hope you enjoy seeing photos along with a few details/stories from our trip!  You know I'm a sucker when it comes to reminiscing :) and for poops-sake, we're onto Italy now! Who can't appreciate un tocco di vita Italiano?!?

That said, here's a look at Milan, Hammers and High Heels style! 

The Duomo of Milan and Piazza del Duomo

Street views walking from the Duomo toward Sforza Castle

Our first Italian dining experience

Sforza Castle

The Santa Maria delle Grazie Church, houses Leonardo da Vinci's Last Supper painting

Galleria Vittorio Emmanuel II

 

Van Bol & Feste, our favorite little cafe/bakery near Sforza Castle

Views from the Terraces atop the Duomo Cathedral

Inside the Duomo

Strangest meal from the whole trip- grilled octopus and fish tar tar, the thought of those tentacles makes me shutter!

Nighttime at the Piazza del Duomo

What was our favorite moment(s) in Milan? 

Alex: Relaxing with a little wine and desserts in the piazza near the Duomo. It was very relaxing to sit there and enjoy the flow of the city.  You could almost feel the pulse of that city from that one spot and it made it very easy to admire Milan. 

Carla: Sitting just a block from the Duomo, sipping our first glass of wine, and people watching.  Taking in those first moments in Italy felt kind of surreal, I loved the feel of Italy and in the back of my mind I kept hearing "holy crap, I'm in Italy."  I can't totally explain it, I just remember the happiness I felt in that moment- in Italy, with my husband.  It was perfect :)

What surprised us about Milan? 

Alex: I personally felt that it was an easy city to get into the groove of.  I know it's a big time vacation "no-no" but, it was fun finding a favorite little spot and grabbing a bite to eat there.  Also- because the city isn't littered with tourist "must-sees," it was easier to relax and just be there. 

Carla: Milan seemed to be shopping heaven- I heard that it would be and I usually turn off my shopping brain when I'm with Alex but I got sucked in! Store after store I "ooo-ed" and "ahh-ed" at every window, it's not everyday I can go into a Zara and Zara Home after all!  Alex was a good sport though, he even got sucked in a little bit! So, we ended up shopping which was certainly a surprise! 

What was a must-try menu item while in Milan? 

Alex:  Uh, it's Italy, try anything and everything that interests you! My favorite was the Speck and Brie Focaccia from Van Bol & Feste

Carla: That's tough since we were really only there for one and a half days, but I guess I'd say the best food experience in Milan was the Aperitivo at a bar/restaurant by the Duomo (having a hard time finding the name, hope to link it up if I can).  Aperitivo is basically the Italian version of a Happy Hour- but they don't do drink specials.  Instead drink prices are the same or higher, but buying a drink entitles you to a free buffet of Italian specialties! Thankfully it isn't actually a buffet, the wait staff kept bringing us plate after plate of random goodies until we had to say stop! You leave a bit tipsy, stuffed, and you spent less than $20 for two!  Who wouldn't love it?!

What tip would we share for someone going there?

Alex: Don't pay 50 euro for a bottle of wine unless you know it's worth it. Instead, grab a little bite to eat and a bottle of wine to go from a cafe that's not on the main tourist drag. Enjoy it casually while you take in the city from a park bench or the base of a fountain. You'll be glad you did!  Oh, and pay to go up to the top of the Duomo- it's quite awe-inspiring! 

Carla: Don't order the grilled octopus and seafood tar tar.  Guess that applies in any city though really! -shutter- ugh I thought about the sucker things on the tentacles, now I'm grossed out again. 

Why would we go back?

Alex: To just slow down and maybe do a little shopping?

Carla: To shop! Which means I'd love to go on my own or with gal pals.  But if Alex was with me, I'd let him at a nice cafe to sip some espresso so I could wander store to store in peace.  There were so many lovely looking shops, but since our visit was so short I didn't really get to indulge into shopping as much as I wanted.  I'd definitely go back to hit all the apparel, home decor, and shoe stores I missed! 

Video bonus! Enjoy the fine Italian street performance and me kill the pronunciation of "The Duomo"!

   

My favorite city, place, country, best place in the world is up next- Dubrovnik, Croatia!  Tons of beauty and adventures to share, hope you'll stop back to see the Zidarevich's back in our homeland!  See you then! 

Our Prague Experience

Happy Saturday everyone! Who's pumped for the three day weekend? I know I am, I've been a real slow-poke with getting my trip photos organized so the extra day off of work will be nice.  Hoping to get them all done, but I've got our first city ready to share today (still no word on our camera in Copenhagen).  Here's a look at Prague from our visit along with a his & her take and some tips on the city- Scroll to the bottom for that.  Alex and I had fun answering the questions separately and surprised each other with some of the responses! 

Prague Castle, St. Vitus Cathedral, and the Loreta in the Hradcany neighborhood

Views from the Strahov Monestary walking toward the St. Charles Bridge

Cheese & Czech brews at Klasterni Pivovar in Strahov

St. Charles Bridge, Mala Strana, and a view of Prague Castle at night

St. Charles Bridge

Outside of our hotel- Hotel Monestary, lovely & peaceful rooms with a gorgeous view of Prague

Old-world dining in a 13th century cellar and a modern take on traditional Czech dishes at Klub Architektu 

Views from Prague Castle, St. Virus Cathedral, and sunset from the Old Town side of Vltava River

Visit and views from Petrin Hill

Night views of Mala Strana walking up towed the Strahov Monestary

Garlic soup, escargot, and goulash at Kocar z Vidne Kutsche was definetly a favorite meal in Prague!

Old Jewish Cemetary in Josefov, oldest grave dates back to the 1300's, when the cemetery became filled they began to stack the graves

Turkish coffee and hookah at Andalous Shisha Lounge, so far from home, so different than our everyday

Powder Gate and the Old Town Square

Sitting by the Vltava River enjoying less hustle & bustle below the St. Charles Bridge

What was your favorite moment in Prague? 

Alex: My favorite moment in Prague was one that could be experienced in most European cities- sitting in a public park with an adult beverage, just taking it all in.  I don't think we take enough time to slow down and enjoy things in America.  Sitting quietly at the foot of the St. Charles bridge was soothing and surreal.

Carla: After our long flight there, we checked into our hotel and headed up to our room. Once in the room, I dropped my bags and walked straight to the large open window and got my first real view of Prague- my favorite moment.  The city was breathtaking, stunningly beautiful and it felt so old world romantic. It felt as though I stepped back into a fairy tale, especially when a nearby clock tower began to ring! Favorite moment for me, I will never forgot that first glance overlooking the city from our windowsill. 

What surprised you about Prague? 

Alex: It was packed. Sure, we were there in August, but it was really busy.  I shouldn't have been surprised but I was.  The city itself was quiet, splendid, and reminded me of a fairy tale still.

Carla: Honestly, there wasn't tons to do- and I say that perhaps because we were there for four days and probably only needed two or three.  We saw all the sites on our list at the end of day two really and then just enjoyed wandering around.  I know it might sound dumb, but that's what surprised me.

What was your must-try menu item while in Prague? 

Alex: I had a traditional dish made of pork heart, tongue and liver in a creamed sauce that was quite good, but my favorite- and a must try- was simple street food we found in the center of the Old Town Square. Potato Gnocchi with Sauerkrat and ham... So good!  This is a recipe that I will bring home!

Carla: I wanted to try some traditional Czech dishes even though some were foods I normally dislike.  Goulash for example, normally something I hate, but the goulash in Prague at Kocar z Vidne Kutschene was my favorite in Prague!  The restaurant is just below the St Charles Bridge on the Mala Strana side and mixes Czech and Austrian cuisine, it was fantastic! 

What tip would you share for someone going there?

Alex: Slow down! Be willing to explore and take it in. Stray from the usual restaurants and try something daring. I love cities that are on rivers- you can't get lost, just go find something and the river will guide you back.

Carla: Get a lot of cash out of an ATM once you get there because a surprisingly high amount of restaurants, businesses, and tourist stops DO NOT take credit cards.  It got kind of annoying after several ATM withdrawals knowing we were being charged an international fee each time, small but it adds up! If you go, keep cash with you!

Why would you go back?

Alex: I would go back for the Turkish coffee and the relaxing vibe. Prague isn't huge so feel free to take an afternoon nap or sleep in a bit.  It's a great place to kick-off a multi-city trip.

Carla: I would go back to see the beauty of the city in the late fall or winter months.  Everything you read about the city's beauty is true, it's different than other European cities in so many ways.  I'd love to see that beauty in different seasons- I imagine it'd also be less busy and tourist-y in those months!